Boobie Beanie for Cancer Awareness month

materials needed:
~ size I hook
~ skin color worsted weight yarn (i use red heart in "nude" color)
~ nipple color worsted weight yarn (i use red heart in light brown)
~ opional pink yarn

This pattern is in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness month, which is October. This pattern is free to use, but do not copy or claim as your own, please.
You can make as many boobies from this pattern as you wish, but do not sell unless all proceeds will go to a breast cancer charity.

SOME INFO ON BREAST CANCER

Breast cancer, like all cancers, has no cure yet, but can be treated if caught early.
Men can get breast cancer too, but it is 100 times more frequent in women.
Breast cancer is second most common type of cancer after lung cancer and the fifth most common cause of cancer death.
It is important to get yearly breast exams at a doctor's and perform self checks regularly.
I hope that anyone who makes/wears one of these hats will spread the word of breast cancer awareness to friends and loved ones.

NIPPLE

CH 2 with nipple color yarn
- 3 sc's in 2nd chain from hook, join with a slip stitch (3 scs)
- ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, join with a slip stitch (3 scs)
- ch 1, 2 sc's in each sc around, join with a slip stitch (6 scs)
- ch 1, 2 sc's in each sc around, join with a slip stitch (12 scs)
- ch 1, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc's in next st* repeat from * around (18 sc's)

INCREASES
NOTE: for baby sizes, do only the first 3 rows of increases.

attach skin color yarn when you join with a slip stitch and chain 3 with skin color. ch 3 counts as a double crochet here.
- 1 dc in same stitch as chain/join, *1 dc in next st, 2 ds's in next ch* repeat from * around ending with 1 dc and join to top of ch 3
- ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as chain/join, *1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 ds's in next ch* repeat from * around ending with 1 dc and join to top of ch 3
- ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as chain/join, *1 dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 ds's in next ch* repeat from * around ending with 1 dc and join to top of ch 3
- ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as chain/join, *1 dc in each of next 4 sts, 2 ds's in next ch* repeat from * around ending with 1 dc and join to top of ch 3
- ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as chain/join, *1 dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 ds's in next ch* repeat from * around ending with 1 dc and join to top of ch 3
- ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch as chain/join, *1 dc in each of next 6 sts, 2 ds's in next ch* repeat from * around ending with 1 dc and join to top of ch 3

WORK EVEN

- ch 3, skip same stitch as chain/join and work 1 dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch. repeat this for 3 more rows or as desired.
- work one row of single crochets in skin color (or pink) with decreases where needed if hat is too big.

OTHER IDEAS

you can make boobie pillows if you continue with decreases and stuff afterwords.
leave spaces open and make a teapot cozy.

if you have more ideas, leave in the comments below :)

Shark hat Pattern

Shark hat Pattern!



Materials
~gray yarn
~pink yarn
~white yarn
~some black yarn and an eye color yarn
~I hook for adult size (you will have to figure out the changes for smaller sizes, sorry)
~G hook for teeth
~tapestry or yarn needle for sewing parts on

NOTE: this is worked in Amigurumi style, this means the rounds are not joined and the rounds are a continuous spiral.
This pattern was made by looking at the finished product so it is pretty accurate. May be a bit confusing, and is not tested, this is why it is free.
You may make as many shark hats from this as you like if they are for you or for a gift, but don't sell any hats that you make from this pattern.
Do not try and sell or claim this pattern as your own.

TAIL & BODY

tail fin 1

with grey yarn and I hook ch2
rnd 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook.- 4 stitches
rnd 2: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next sc* 2 times- 6 stitches
rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 2 scs* 2 times - 8 stitches
rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 3 scs* 2 times - 10 stitches
rnd 5: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 4 scs* 2 times - 12 stitches
rnd 6: *2 sc in next sc 1 sc in next 5 scs* 2 times - 14 stitches
rnd 7: 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, (decrease over next 2 scs) twice

(this part is kind of tricky, i just counted that i did 42 sc's as i went around) counts as about 2.5 rnds

next rnd:(decrease over next 2 scs) twice, 1 sc in next 23 sts
(decrease over next 2 scs) twice, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, (decrease over next 2 scs) twice, single crochet in next 2 sts, slip st looseley into next stitch and fasten off 8 or 9 sts total

tail fin 2

work as tail fin 1 but DO NOT fasten off at the end!

another tricky part to explain:
join the tail fins to make the complete tail by single crocheting around half of the current fin (tail fin 2) and joining up the other fin and working a complete round on that one, and then finishing the other half of the 2nd fin. total you'll have about 16-18 stitches. if there's a hole in the middle where you joined, you can sew it if you like.
counts as rnd 1 of tail.

rnd 2: 1 sc in each stitch around if you had 18 sts in the previous round. if you had less than 18, then increase tso you have 18 sts in that round.
rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts) twice - 20 sts total
rnd 4-7: 1 sc in each stitch around - 20 sts total
rnd 8: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts) twice - 22 sts
rnd 9 1 sc in each st around - 22 sts total
rnd 10: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts) twice - 24 sts
rnd 11: 1 sc in each st around - 24 sts
rnd 12: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 11 sts) twice - 26 sts
rnd 13: 1 sc in each st around - 26 sts
rnd 14: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts) twice - 28 sts
rnd 15: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts) 4 times - 32 sts
rnd 16: 1 sc in each st around - 32 sts
rnd 17: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 7 sts) 4 times - 36 sts
rnds 18- 21: 1 sc in each st around - 36 sts
rnd 19: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts) 4 times - 40 sts
rnd 20: 1 sc in each st around - 40 sts
rnd 21: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts) 4 times - 44 sts
rnd 22-23: 1 sc in each st around - 44 sts
rnd 24: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts) 4 times - 48 sts
rnd 25: 1 sc in each st around - 48 sts
rnd 26: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 11 sts) 4 times - 52 sts
rnd 27: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts) 4 times - 56 sts
rnd 28: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts) 8 times - 64 sts
rnd 29- 41: 1 sc in each st around - 64 sts

check to see if it is a good size, like if it is too big. if it is too big decrease evenly for 2 rows till it is the perfect size. if it is perfect continue evenly for 2 rows.
end off gray at 43 rows

with pink, attach yarn with a single crochet near where you ended with grey and work 1 sc in the BACK LOOP ONLY for 1 row, end off pink and attach white.

TEETH
with white attached to where you ended pink and a G hook, (ch 4, sc in snd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch) skip 1 stitch and slip stitch tightly to next stitch. repeat around hat and then finish off.

EYES (make 2)
with eye color yarn and I hook ch 2
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
switch color to white and looseley sc 1 in each stitch around, join with loose slip stitch and end off with a long tail to sew
eyes should lie flat if you did this loose enough.
with black and a tapestry or yarn needle, sew a streat line from one end of the pupil to the other end.

FINS (make 3)
Note: this is kind of confusing, so you can make this however you want, you might come out with a better way than I did)

with I hook and grey yarn, work rnds 1-7 as you did tail fins
next rnd
2 sc in each of next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, (1 treble crochet in each of next 3 sts, but finish them off together so it is one stitch), 1 dc in next st, 1 hdc in wach of next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 5 ssts, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

attach side fins at around rnd 28

here is a diagram of how it should look flat




enjoy! and if you make one i'd love to see yours
hope it's not too confusing ><

Chihuahua Sweater 2.0

This is a variation on the first chihuahua sweater pattern i made. This one is less stiff and quicker to make. There might be a problem with puppies getting their feet in the double crochet so I don't think I would reccomend for puppies, but for grown chihuahuas around 2 lbs, this should work great.

As with all my patterns, these are for personal use! do not post this pattern anywhere or make these to profit. You may link to it, though. Items made are not to be sold unless for charity. You can donate items made from this pattern to animal shelters if you wish.

materials
i crochet hook
worsted weight yarn
Optional (dog to try on and fix as you go)

NOTE
hood part i put is not complete

chain 30
join with slip stitch to first chain.
rnd 1: chain 3, skip first stitch and double crochet in each chain around, join to top of chain 3 with slip stitch (you should have 30 sts)
rnds 2- 5: chain 3, skip first stitch and double crochet in each dc around, join to top of chain 3 with slip stitch (you should have 30 sts)
rnd 6: chain 1 and single crochet in each stitch around. slip stitch to first chain.
rnd 7: chain 1 and single crochet in next 3 sc's. chain 6 or 7 depending on how tight your chains are, skip 5 sc's and sc in the next sc, sc in each of the next 13 sts. chain 6 or 7 again, skip 5 sc's and sc in the next st, and sc into next 2 sts, join with slip stitch to 1st chain.
rnd 8: chain 1, sc in next 2 sts, 5 sc's in chain space 1 sc in next 14 sts, 5 scs in chain space, 1 sc in next 3 sc's, join with slip stitch.
rnd 9: ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch around, join with slip stitch to beg ch.
rnd 10: ch 1, decrease over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, decrease over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts,1 hdc in each of next 14 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, dec over next to sts, 1 sc in last 3 sts, join to first chain with slip stitch.

end here if you just want a sweater for the doggy, but i have a hood on mine, this next part isn't complete because i put ear holes in the hood and they didn't come out too good, if you're brave enough to try and finish the hood yourself here's the part i could figure out

for hood, don't end off and
rnd 11: chain2, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dcs in next st, 1 dc in next st,1 hdc in next 6 sts, join to top of 2nd chain with slip stitch.
rnd 12: slip stitch in top of first 4 sts, chain 3 and dc in first 2 sts, 1 hdc in next 14 sts, 1 dc's in next 3 sts, chain 4 and turn to form hood
rnd 13: skip 1st stitch and triple crochet in next 7 sts, 2 triple crochets in next st, 1 triple ccrochet in next st, 2 triple crochets in next st, 1 triple crochet in next 9 sts

little fox pattern

he's gonna be about a foot tall when made. not tested yet, hopefully it you understand it. the chest tuft and bottom of head gets confusing, but just try it as you go and it'll work. PLEASE DO NOT COPY AND PASTE THIS! you may link to it but don't copy paste somewhere people will mistake it as your work, because it isn't and it took me hours to get this done.

RULES FOR THIS PATTERN
For personal use only! Don't sell it or things you make from it. You can make as many foxes as you want to give away or for yourself, just don't sell them unless the profit will go to charity.



little fox pattern

materials needed

~g/6 hook (4.25 mm)
~yarn in main body color (color a) and in other color (color b)
~stuffing
~material for eyes, mouth, nose, ear lining (this could be yarn felt or beads, whichever you prefer)
~optional stitch markers

pattern is amigurumi, so it is worked in spirals and not joined unless indicated.

EARS (make 2)
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 4 sc in first ch.
Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
Rnd 2: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * once more - 6 sts.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * once more - 8 sts.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * once more - 10 sts.
Rnd 5: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * once more - 12 sts.
Rnds 6-12: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 13: (Sc2tog) around - 6 sts.
Fasten off.

LEGS (make 4)

foot
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: work 7 scs in in first chain
Rnd 2: 2 scs in first st, sc in next st, 2 hdcs in next 3 sts, sc in next st, 2scs in next st -12sts.
Rnd 3: sc in first st, 2 scs in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 hdcs in next 5 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2scs in next st -19sts.
Rnd 4: sc in first st, sc in next 18 sts
Rnd 5: sc in first st, sc in next 5 sts, sc dec 4 times, sc in next 5 sts -15sts.
Rnd 6: sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, sc dec 3 times , sc in next 4 sts -12sts.
legs
Rnd 7-12: sc around 12 sts, mark end of rnds so you don't get confused or just do 60 sc's in a continous round

i copy pasted this from my lion pattern

BODY

with A
ch 2
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook
round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (18 sts)
round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (24 sts)
round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (30 sts)
round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (36 sts)
round 7-17: crochet even, don't increase or decrease
round 18: *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 5 sts* 6 times (36 sts)
round 19: *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 4 sts* 6 times (30 sts)
round 20: *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 3 sts* 6 times (24 sts) stuff body
round 21: *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 2 sts* 6 times (18 sts)
round 22: *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 1 sts* 6 times (12 sts)
round 23: *dec over next 2 stitches,* 6 times (6 sts)
bind off.

HEAD

with A
ch 2
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook
round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (18 sts)
round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (24 sts)
round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (30 sts)
round 6-10: work even, no increase or decrease (30 sts)
muzzle
round 11: 3 scs in 1st sc of rnd. 1 sc in next 23 sts, 3 scs in next sc, 1 sc in next 6 sts
round 12: 2 scs in 1st sc, 1 sc in each of next 26 sts, 2 scs in next st, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts
round 13: dec over first 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 4 stsdec over next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, dec over next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 5 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts
round 14: dec over first 2 sts, 1sc in next 2 scs, dec ovr next 2 sts. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, dec ovr nxt 2, 1 sc in next 2scs. dec ovr next 2 scs. 1 sc in next 2 scs. dec over next 2 sts. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in eacvh of next 5 scs.
round 15: dec over first 2 sts, 1sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next sc, dec ovr next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts.
round 16 to end: dec over every 2 sts, till the hole is small enough to sew shut

TAIL

with color b
ch 2

rnd 1: 4sc into 1st ch
rnd 2: [1sc, inc 2] x 2 (6st)
rnd 3: [2sc, inc 2] x 2 (8st)
rnd 4: [3sc, inc 2] x 2 (10st)
rnd 5: [4sc, inc 2] x 2 (12st)
rnd 6: [5sc, inc 2] x 2 (14st)
rnd 7: [6sc, inc 2] x 2 (16st)
rnd 8: [7sc, inc 2] x 2 (18st)
switch to color a
rnd 9: [8sc, inc 2] x 2 (20st)
rnd 10: [4sc, inc 2] x 4 (24st)
rnd 12: [5sc, inc 2] x 4 (28st)
rnd 13: [6sc, inc 2] x 4 (32st)
rnd 14-18 work even no inc or decs
rnd 19-20: *dec over 2 st, 1 sc in next st* around


CHEST TUFT

with color b
ch 2
rnd 1: 4sc into 1st ch
rnd 2: [1sc, inc 2] x 2 (6st)
rnd 3: [2sc, inc 2] x 2 (8st)
rnd 4: [3sc, inc 2] x 2 (10st)
rnd 5: 1 sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st, 1 sc in next st, inc in next sc
rnd 6: 1 sc in next 3 sts, 3 scs in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts, 3 scs in next sc, 1 sc in each next 7 sts
rnd 7: inc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts, inc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts.
rnd 8: 3 scs in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts, 3 scs in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts,
rnd 9: inc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts inc in nect 2 sts, 1 sc in next 13 sts
rnd 10: 3 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next 16 sts, 3 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 13 sts
rnd 11: dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, dec over nxt 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 14 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, dec over nxt 2 sts, 1 sc in next 12 sts
rnd 12: dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of 12 sts, dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts
rnd 13: dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 8 scs, dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 11 sts
rnd 14: 1 sc in next 33 sts
rnd 15: dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts, dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, dec over next 2 sts, dec over next 2 sts,dec over next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 7 sts
bind off

stuff lightly if you wish. only on the 3 tips, leave the middle flat.


ASSEMBLY

stuff head, legs, tail, body
sew legs to body. sew tail to body. sew ears to head. place chest tuft so the long tip hangs to mid chest and sew in place. sandwhich chest tuft between head and body. sew head to body through the chest tuft. close chest tuft off if you have not already.
add stitches to separate chest tuft and toes. make face eyes how you wish. line the ears with fabric or felt if you wish

Crochet Chihuahua/puppy sweater

f

RULES FOR USING THIS PATTERN
You may not sell this pattern! It is mine and I wrote it out to help people with small dogs because it is hard to find clothes for dogs this tiny. You may modify this pattern to fit your dog. You may link to it but not copy and paste the pattern on other sites.
This is the second pattern I write out. I have corrected some errors, but there may still be some.

Hopefully this will be useful to someone with a small dog!


materials used
g size hook
worsted weight varigated yarn


main sweater:

~chain 39 and join with sl st at the first chain.

round 1: ch 1. sc in same ch as sl join and in every stitch around (39)

rnd 2: mark where first stitch is and continue single crocheting without a slip stitch for second round. if you like, you can join, but i didn't cause i don't like the seam thing that slip stitch leaves. (39)

rnd 3: sc in the next 3 sc, chain 10, skip next 9 sc's and sc in the next st. sc in the next 14 sc's. ch 10 skip next 9 sc's and sc in the next st. sc in the next 2 sc and start new round (39)

rnd 4: sc in the next 3 sc's, sc 9 around ch 10 sp, sc in 15 sc's, sc 9 around ch 10 sp, sc in next 2 sc's. (39)

rnd 5- 21: sc in each sc around (39)

bind off when it is the desired length. 21 rounds should be around the right length if you want it shorter or longer, just add more rows. if it is too small, you could go up a hook size or do HDC's instead of SC's.


optional hood:
i wanted a hood on mine, i was just making this as i went so, it came out pretty loose.

row 1: attach yarn with a sc at 4 loops into the arm hole area at the top of the sweater. sc in the next 23 st's. ch 1 turn.

row 2-12: sc in every sc. ch 1. turn

row 13: sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 7 st, dec, sc in next 6 st. ch 1. turn.

row 14-16: sc until you reach dec and then dec, sc until you reach next dec and sc in each stitch till you get to the end. ch 1, turn.

this should make the hood big enough to go over your dog's head. bind off. fold the top of the hood in half and sew it together.

Amigurumi Lion Pattern

I made this up as I went along, I thought I would share with other people. I wanted to make a lion, but none of the patterns available were cute enough for me

this pattern can be made in 2 ways, instuctions are at the bottom for assembly. you can also adapt it to make a bear or other animals!

You can use this pattern, but you can't sell it or claim it as your own! I made it up and I took the time to write it up, so please respect that! You may link to this, but don't copy and paste the whole thing to your own blog! You can make as many lions from this as you want to give away or keep. You can sell some of these if the proceeds will go to a charity, but not if they will go to yourself or a company.

Materials
~worsted weight or thinner yarn ( i used a yarn i had in my stash that was missing the label, it's soft and somewhat silky feeling, thinner than worsted, i remember the color was honey)

~2 balls of fun fur yarn (i used lion brand fun fur in copper)

~F or G hook (i used f because my yarn was kinda thin and i didn't want stuffing poking through)


note: this pattern is worked in spirals. do not join rounds. use a stitch marker to keep your place.


muzzle
with body color yarn, ch 2 (or do the magic ring)
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or in magic ring)
round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (18 sts)
round 4-6: 1 sc in each st around (18) bind off leaving a long tail to sew to face later

Head
face
with normal yarn
ch 2 (or do the magic ring)
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or in magic ring)
round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (18 sts)
round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (24 sts)
round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (30 sts)
round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (36 sts)
round 7: *1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (42 sts)
mane
note: when working with fun fur, the fuzzyness tends to go to the "wrong side" you might have to turn it inside out, maybe that just happens to me, though, lol.
round 8: holding main yarn, add 2 strands of fun fur. hold all 3 strands together and make 1 sc in each stitch around. (42 sts)
rounds 9-15: hold all 3 strands together and make 1 sc in each stitch around (42 sts)
round 16: holding all 3 strands together *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 5 sts* 6 times (36 sts) sew muzzle and add eyes
round 17: holding all 3 strands together *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 4 sts* 6 times (30 sts)
round 18: holding all 3 strands together *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 3 sts* 6 times (24 sts) stuff head
round 19: holding all 3 strands together *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 2 sts* 6 times (18 sts)
round 20: holding all 3 strands together *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 1 sts* 6 times (12 sts)
round 21: holding all 3 strands together *dec over next 2 stitches,* 6 times (6 sts)
bind off.

ears (make 2)
ch 2 (or do the magic ring)
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or in magic ring)
round 2: 2 sc in each of the next 5 stitches. (10 sts) bind off leaving a long tail for sewing to head

body
with normal yarn
ch 2 (or do the magic ring)
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or in magic ring)
round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (18 sts)
round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (24 sts)
round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (30 sts)
round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (36 sts) stuff body
round 7-19 1 sc in each stitch around (36 sts)
round 20: *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 4 sts* 6 times (30 sts)
round 21-22: 1 sc in each stitch around (30 sts)
round 23: *dec over next 2 stitches, 1 sc in next 3 sts* 6 times (24 sts) stuff body
bind off. leave a long tail for sewing

arm (make 2)
with normal yarn
ch 2 (or do the magic ring)
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or in magic ring)
round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
round 3-4: 1 sc in each stitch around (12 sts)
round 5: *dec over next 2 sts, 1sc in next 2 sts* 3 times (9 sts) stuff.
round 6-15 1 sc in each stitch around (9 sts) stuff.
bind off leaving a long tail for sewing.

legs (make 2)
with normal yarn
ch 2 (or do the magic ring)
round 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or in magic ring)
round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in following st* 6 times (18 sts)
round 4: 1 sc in each stitch around (18 sts)
round 5: decrease over next 2 scs, 1 sc in next st, decrease over next 2 scs, 1 sc in each of the remaining 13 sts. (16 sts)
round 6: decrease over next 2 scs, decrease over next 2 scs, 1 sc in next 12 scs (14 scs)
round 7-14: 1 sc in each st around.

tail
with one strand of normal yarn and 2 strands of fun fur held together, ch 2 (or do the magic ring)
round 1: 5 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or in magic ring)
round 2- 9: sc in each st around (5 sts)
bind off leaving a long tail to sew


Assembly

This lion can be assembled 2 different ways and look cute.

Option 1: the sitting lion. This one sits like a person.
Make all the pieces indicated.
Sew body to head, with opening on the body up against the lion head like a person.
Sew arms on either side of the head like a person.
sew legs at the bottom front like in the picture
sew tail on it's butt

option 2: the "realistic lion"
instead of making arms, make 2 more legs.
make all the other parts.
For the body, continue decreasing till it is closed off.

follow this diagram

Crochet Mustache Pattern

This is the first pattern I typed up, so there might be some errors. You can use this pattern, but you can't sell it or claim it as your own! I made it up and I took the time to write it up, so please respect that! You may link to this, but don't copy and paste the whole thing to your own blog or site! You can make as many mustaches from this as you want to give away or keep. You can sell some of these if the proceeds will go to a charity, but not if they will go to yourself or a company.

allrighty, this pattern is made in a continuous spiral, a la amigurumi style.

materials:
- acrylic worsted weight yarn(i think, i dunno might need to be thinner yarn) in color of choice (yes it has to be acrylic unless you want wool scratching up against your face if you wear it)

- a G/6-4.25mm hook


~first off, make a magic loop (OR chain 2)

~in loop (or 2nd chain from hook), make 4 sc (4)

~ 1 sc in each st (4)

~ *2 sc in next st, 1 sc* twice (6)

~ 2 sc in next st, 1 sc around. (7)

~ 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last stitch of rnd. (11)

~ 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 2sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in last st (15)

~ 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, sc 2 tog (dec), sc in next 6 sts (14?)

~ 1 sc in next 8 st, sc 2 tog (dec), sc in next 5 st (13)

~ sc next 2 st together, 1 sc in next 5 st, sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next 5 sts

~ sc next 2 tog, 1 sc in next 4 st, sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts

~ sc next 2 tog, 1 sc in next 8 sts

halfway done! this is the thinnest part of the 'stache

~ 2 sc in next st, 1 in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 st

~ 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 st

~ 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 st

~ 1 sc in first 8 sts, 2 sc's in next st, 1 sc in next 4 st, sc 2 together.

~ sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next 11 sts, sc 2 tog

~ sc 2 tog, sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next 7 st, sc 2 tog

~ sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next 7 st, sc 2 tog

~ 1 sc in next 2 st, sc 2 tog, 1 sc in next 2 st

~ sc 2 tog, 1 sc, sc 2 tog, sc 2 tog

~ 1 sc in each st, you should have 4. slip stitch in next st, finish off.

when folded in half, it should be symmetrical.


you can stuff the mustache and add a face to have a toy mustache, or you can leave it unstuffed and add it to something and

wear it on your face. it's your mustache! do what you want!


some ideas i came up with a stuffed mustache, is that it looks a bit like a tamarind pod if it's dark brown, or it could also look like a poo. In asia (i think korea or japan), they have some poo's with faces on em and people think they're cute lol.